07/14/2003

Il Palio

Il Palio - Italia horse-racing with a twist, occurs twice a year on the 2nd July and the 16th August, at Piazza del Campo in the centre of Siena.

I visited Siena a couple of weeks ago, taking the hour journey bus ride from Firenze (Florence). Largely enclosed by it's medieval walls, Siena is a beautiful city with a mixture of tall Gothic marble architecture and ancient stone buidlings.The stone pathways at the start of the old town lead you to Piazza del Campo, where Il Palio has taken place since the Middle Ages.

Standing in the middle of Piazza del Campo, it is hard to imagine that ten horses and their bareback riders race in this campo, which is barely bigger than an averaged sized carpark. Thousands of tourists, both Italian and foreign, descend on Siena for the 60 second Il Palio, in which ten of Siena's town districts compete for the silk banner or 'palio'. Siena becomes a crazed Italian fued festival of eating and drinking, days before Il Palio, and days after. It is true that Il Palio is all about the horses - a horse can win the race even if his jockey has fallen!

Spectacular Siena is surrounded by the Tuscan green hills and fields of olive trees, sunflowers, and plantations of the best vineyards found in Italy. Siena is an ideal stop for a few days to breathe in & explore the Tuscan culture & countryside which is so unique from the rest of Italy.

The Tuscans are continuly described as the friendliest people in Italy, or even the world. A visit won't go unsurpassed without seeing many smiling & relaxed people taking timeout sitting on benches, hanging out windows, and just watching the world go by. Perhaps it's the sunshine or perhaps it's the olive oil that keeps these people so happy.

Staying in Siena, accommodation can be limited as it is a popular destination for both Italians and foreigners throughout the year. During Il Palio accommodation is sparse, as many budget hotels and hostels are booked out well in advance. The best advice I can give is book months in advance. If accommodation is unavailable in Siena, the nearby medieval towns of San Gimignano, Cortona, or Volterra may be an option, or you can stay in the easily reachable & stunning city of Florence.